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I was delighted to discover that the South Indian seasoning podi – a rubble of searingly hot, coarsely crushed spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. This is accurate if you were using my grandmother’s home-dried chillies, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less adventurous with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

Prepare six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if wooden, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep a quick 10 minutes
Cook 30 minutes
Serves 2

Four hundred grams starchy potatoes, chopped into 4cm chunks
Two hundred twenty-five grams paneer, diced into 2cm cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
Half a teaspoon fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
One teaspoon chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, plus extra to serve
Two garlic cloves, prepared and minced
1-inch piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
40ml neutral oil
One red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
10g fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
Half a teaspoon flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for 9 minutes, then remove the water and allow to air dry for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for five minutes, then strain and blot dry.

Tip the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then pound or blitz to a chunky blend.

Transfer to a large mixing bowl with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then gently stir in the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Skewer the vegetables and cheese on to barbecue sticks, then move to a sheet pan and set aside until needed – optionally, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Whisk all the sauce elements in a container. Turn on the grill to its maximum heat, then grill the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the intensity of your oven, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, scattered with a little more sea salt and the sauce on the side for serving.